You never know what you’ll discover taking the backroads – like the Wyoming Pyramid! (Ames Brothers State Historic Site, GPS 41.131, -105.398).
We had a relaxed departure from our site at St Vrain Campground in Colorado because we only had a couple hours driving ahead of us. Or so we thought.
Lesson #1 of traveling in Wyoming – don’t come before May! We got to Wyoming in early April and learned the hard way that the state just doesn’t open to visitors that early, at least public lands don’t. This year (2021) the snow was mostly melted, but accumulations at higher elevations and still-freezing temps and morning dustings of snow are common well into what other states would call Spring.
Our plans A through D of places to park in SW Wyoming were all behind closed gates. We regrouped at Sherman Summit rest area on I-80 and Calvin got a hold of a super helpful USFS employee who helped us track down a possible “not locked” campground near Esterbrook. We stopped for a wonderful lunch in Laramie and then headed via the “backway” toward Esterbrook Campground.
And we almost made it! The last quarter mile was more snow than we wanted to risk with Moose not having 4WD, but a very short distance down the hill was a wide pull out with a gold medal view! Perfect enough!
The next morning there was a dusting of snow, but the bright sun and calm winds were wonderful walking weather as we hiked with the dogs and Cole Kitty up to explore the campground. Nice spot. Although truth be told, we liked our view from the ridge better!
Our next stop was the Bixby Access Area on the North Platte River about 30 miles east of Casper. This is a popular fishing hole with the locals, but there are a few camping spots with primitive fire rings. I got a great upper body workout paddling the kayak upstream about 500 yards in 45 minutes (the 5 minute float back was delightful!). Our friendliest visitors were the sheep that passed through each afternoon.
One of our must-stops in Wyoming was Lou Taubert Ranch Outfitters in Casper. What a great place with authentic western wear, an impressive selection of cowboy boots (and yes, we both got a pair), and Wyoming history.
From Casper we headed north toward Outlaw Cave campground near Kaycee, WY. And we almost made it. Despite no snow, the gates were still locked (c’mon, Wyoming!), so we spent the night among a group of bulls outside the gate.
We woke to a couple inches of fresh powder and Calvin asked, “Well, North or South?” “Definitely South!” Our original route would have taken us through Yellowstone in the NW corner of the state, but at this point, I didn’t have much confidence that we’d be able to get through that way. So we headed out early and encountered our first Wyoming Traffic Jam – Seven pickups on a dirt road 25 miles from the nearest pavement! Funny.
Fortunately we started early, because we basically did a cannonball run retracing our route back to Casper and cutting across southern Wyoming past Independence Rock to Rock Springs. There was lots of boondocking space available in Flaming Gorge Recreation Area, so we decided to hunker down while a cold front passed through, get some work done (several-times-a-day trips to a nearby ridge for strong cell signal), and explore this interesting canyon when the wind died down. Once again, we were thankful for our diesel heater that just kept chugging out the warmth.
Observations about Wyoming:
1) People do not seem to be very friendly unless they’re salespeople or waiters. Bear in mind, we’re from the Pacific Northwest where everyone talks to everyone (probably why I like Texans so much); Eye contact and friendly banter are pretty normal for us. I suppose in a state with only 2 million people and lots and lots of empty space, the “leave me alone” mindset is pretty strong. It’s not that anyone was rude, they just didn’t interact with us “outsiders.” Maybe doesn’t help that Calvin wears a kilt? Just a theory. You’d think it would help that it’s a kilt with cowboy boots!
2) The country and geology are gorgeous. I’m a rock nerd and I’ve always been in awe of the spectacular rock formations in Wyoming, as well as the paleontological history. I was in rock nerd heaven in several places around the state.
3) Land is cheap. We saw a sign for 40 acres at $995 per acre. If it wasn’t for the winters, Wyoming, you might have me tempted.
4) April is the WRONG TIME to be in the state. Everything is closed. Wait until May or at least check with the appropriate agencies before venturing into the state.
5) Cell signals is only reliable in the plains to the east. Once you get into the mountainous areas, it’s hit or miss. Plan accordingly.
6) Plan for variations in weather conditions, particularly in Spring and Fall. Sixty degree fluctuations from one day to the next are not uncommon.
